Mama Mia! Pizza in the Parking Lot

Is what you see what you get when you visit one of the joints featured on the Food Network show Diners, Drive-In and Dives? That's the question we set out to answer while in Knoxville, Tenn., for Homecoming 2009 at the University of Tennessee. We had copies of Guy Fieri's books, which are based on the TV show. Guy raved about the freshness of the pizza dough - made from yeast and flour and left to rise overnight, none of this frozen business at Pizza Palace. Totally authentic, made-from-scratch Italian food, he said, made by the sons of the original founders, who were Greeks. But would we find the same thing? After all, having Guy Fieri at your drive-in could mean that he gets the absolute best. How would we fare, a carload of Texans? We picked up our own College Guy (age 20) and found our way to the Magnolia Avenue parking lot, where you really do pick up the phone and yes, order a pizza.

We asked for two things, based on Guy Fieri's lead: pizza (with pepperoni, that's the way my son Hunter rolls) and onion rings, which arrived covered in an amusing, tall foil wrap that made them look like a beehive. The verdict? Yes, s'wonderful. I've tasted a lot of pizza crusts in my day, and the difference in this version was remarkably fresh. All of us talked about the cheese, too, as good as if they'd made it on the premises, from goat's milk given by willing goats in the back yard. It was hot, it was cheesy, it was saucy, I could only eat two slices - it's that rich. Ever notice how with mediocre pizzas, you eat more than you should to fulfill a craving that never gets satisfied?

Onion rings - it's a bigger order than 3 of us could handle - and needed salt but that's personal preference. If you get 'em, bring a crowd to share them.

Our server wanted to know where we were from, since locals don't usually sit in the parking lot; they come inside. The seating is quite limited there, so you decide. I did march in and shout "ef-haristo" (Greek for "nice to meet you!"), but the new owners were in the back, behind the scenes. The line staff gave me a big smile and a wave, knowing I meant well.

Go again? Yes, definitely. Fresh taste, high funk factor, friendly staff, what's not to love?

Fieri told you so, and I concur.