Heartbreak Strikes Twice in Same Week

Tomatillo and Cilantro Loaf

Walking up to the grieving father just before the service, I could only think of one thing to say. "In case of emergency, I have cookies," I mumbled, pointing to a small case in my hand. "Of course you do," he replied, and we parted, exchanging the tiniest of smiles.

Within four days, I would tote that same small case to a funeral in my own family. Life moves in ways we don't script. One minute you've carrying concealed cookies into a chapel, the next, you're just changing venues.

What is good to make in times of grief? The roasted tomato basil soup worked for the other family, so I did it again and tossed a salad. Jeanne has a terrific butternut squash chili in her "Heartbreak Recovery Kitchen" cookbook, so I made that, too. It aligns well with my own tomatillo and cilantro loaf, inspired by Chef Stephan Pyles from his Star Canyon and New Texas Cuisine days.

This is a hearty loaf with surprising kick when you add a little sriracha (because you can).

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Tomatillo and Cilantro Loaf

1 pound (10) tomatillos, husked and rinsed

½ cup water

1 ½ tablespoons active dry yeast

4 cups bread flour

2 eggs

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons sriracha sauce or 1 ½ teaspoons cayenne powder

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons salt

1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

olive oil for roasting

kosher salt and pepper for roasting

For the egg glaze

1 whole egg

1 tablespoon milk

Fleur de Sel or other finishing salt such as smoked Salish (optional)

Preheat oven to 400.

On a baking sheet, sprinkle a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Place tomatillos cut side down, roast for 30 minutes. Puree tomatillos and the liquid from the sheet in a blender or food processor, then place in saucepan and cook over medium heat until liquid has evaporated, about 4-5 minutes.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, place water and yeast. Stir to dissolve, allow to sit about 5 minutes. Add 1 ½ cups flour, the eggs and the tomatillos. Using a paddle attachment, mix until incorporated. Add cilantro, cumin, sriracha, salt, pepper, sugar, then remaining 2 ½ cups of flour. Switch to dough hook and mix on medium speed about 2 minutes. Dough should move freely in the bowl but may feel slightly wet.

Transfer dough to a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise until doubled in volume, about 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 375. Gently degas dough, turn out on a lightly floured counter. Divide dough into 2 pieces, form into loaves, and place in 2 greased 9x5-inch loaf pans (or one loaf pan for a large dome on the loaf). Cover loosely with plastic wrap and allow to rise until doubled in volume again, about 45 minutes.

For egg wash, beat egg with milk, brush onto loaf. Sprinkle with finishing salt. Bake for 18-22 minutes if making 2 loaves, or about 45 minutes if making one loaf.

Turn out of pan and onto a rack to cool. This bread freezes well.

Bread is the stuff of life and fills the air with aroma and warmth. That's what you need in times like these.