Monday, June 3, 2013
Flower to Flour: A Beautiful Friendship
What the mind imagines, the hands can make.
These beautiful adornments are an inspirational palette no pastry chef can resist. In fact, Warren Brand of the family owned and operated M. &S. Schmalberg company, tucked 7 floors above West 36th Street in the Fashion District, tells me I am not the first chef to peruse the showroom and warehouse of gorgeous custom flowers for ideas. It seems a master builder of wedding cakes has been here before me, touching and feeling the possibilities. His mind did surely reel. It's that good - like landing in the rainbow of Oz.
Schmalberg is the largest direct manufacturer of custom silk fabric flower pins in the U.S. and has adorned the apparel, millinery, accessory and bridal industries since 1919. How many bakeries can match those years?
I found Schmalberg thanks to a tip from master milliner Ellen Colon-Lugo, the "Hattie Golightly" of Manhattan who is a one-woman Broadway show in her own right. She shares the view that there's a wonderful connection between hats, flowers and pastry - all seek to catch the eye and broaden the smile. If "the eyes eat first" in pastry, as they say, the same applies for hats and how the world receives them. The fashion press has vetted Ellen's mastery of the exquisite more times than the Queen has matched her handbag and shoes. Ellen knows. Only a fool would squander one of her tips.
And so I went, heart pounding, and found myself in a room like this.
And this.
And this.
Staff member Pam met me at the door and welcomed me into this carousel of color, as Disney used to says about the world. She introduced me to Warren, who showed me how the fabrics are stretched, cut and assembled, right there by talented hands. At one time 100 companies were doing this work, he says, but no more. There were shelves upon shelves that held heavy molds of flower shapes, which could have been from the turn of the century for all I know. If they could only talk - if they could be used for chocolate and fondant work - if only there was time to sit still and learn from Warren and his crew.
It seemed an impossible task to make a choice, but people were waiting for me in Herald Square and the skies were threatening to open up, and so my mind reeled. I couldn't leave without taking some of the beauty with me. Thank goodness Pam could steer me through displays and boxes that towered to the ceiling, or I'd still be there.
Here's the real beauty. You can buy the flowers, too. There's no secret password, as this is not Hernando's Hideaway and you don't have to be a suit from Neiman's to step inside.
Seek out Schmalberg on your own in New York, that wonderful town, for a taste of the divine.
I give it 4 creme brulees and 4 top hats, my highest rating.
(And by the way, did I mention they'll give you the name of the feather maker for Broadway?)
M. & S. Schmalberg
242 W 36th St. 7th Fl.
New York, NY 10018
212-244-2090
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